Gabrielle Chanel is the designer most responsible for establishing the modern way of dressing that encompasses comfort, function and simplicity. Chanel championed ensembles comprised of soft knit fabrics early in her career and remained committed to the practicality of matched pieces when she reopened her house in 1954. Instead of humble knits, however, in the 1950s and 1960s she sought out complex textiles made of textured weaves in rich colors, like this example in "tricolore" plaid. The way Chanel breaks up the regularity of the textile pattern in the jacket with an inverted pleat at the hip is one couture feature of this suit. The designer's attention to detail is also shown in the faux cuffs that allow the jacket to be worn without a blouse, minimizing bulk.