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Brooch, ca. 1912–13
Ferdinand Hauser (Austrian, 1864–1919)
Gold, enamel, and moonstones; L. 2 1/2 in. (6.4 cm)
Purchase, Dorothy Merksamer Bequest, in honor of Cynthia Hazen Polsky, 1998 (1998.356)

Description

Jugendstil, the German interpretation of Art Nouveau design, which took hold in Europe at the end of the nineteenth century and first years of the twentieth century, did not subscribe to the exaggerated attenuation and sinuously curvilinear natural forms of the French and Belgian styles. Jugendstil artists, although also basing their designs on nature, often used abstracted forms in a spare and simplified manner with an eye toward techniques of mechanical production.

Hauser, an Austrian sculptor and goldsmith, moved from Vienna to Munich sometime before 1912 to become part of the new modern movement. Hauser's brooch highlights the characteristics of Jugendstil. The lapislike blue enameled central element is decorated with inlaid gold stylized lotus flowers—abstract forms with freely curving stems—which surround the central moonstone. Thirteen teardrop moonstones are suspended from gold chains. Hauser's use of semiprecious and colored materials, rather than all-white precious stones such as diamonds and pearls and metals such as platinum, appealed to the most progressive circles in Europe, much as did the work of his French counterpart, René Lalique.

(Entry written by Jane Adlin)

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