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Man's Jacket, ca. 1997
Gianni Versace (Italian, 1946–1997)
Silk with beading; L. (center back) 34 1/2 in. (87.6 cm)
Gift of Donatella Versace, 1999 (1999.328.1)

Description

This dynamic single-breasted jacket was created for rock star Elton John. Both functional and flamboyant, it has the bold graphic quality that was a Versace signature. The black-and-white zebra pattern is reminiscent of op art motifs, and its larger-than-life swirls relate to the personal energy of both designer and client.

The collar is draped high and soft, with notches near the shoulder line. The placement of the welt pockets emphasizes the refined tailoring and attention to detail. Randomly scattered on the printed silk are numerals and the name Elton in polychrome beads. These appliqués may be an homage to Los Angeles designer Nudie Cohn, a.k.a. Nudie the Tailor, who created sparkling, studded suits for countless rhinestone cowboys, cowgirls, and Hollywood stars until his death in 1984.

Versace enjoyed the camaraderie of many celebrities in fashion, music, and theater, but his relationship with Elton John was based on devoted mutual admiration. Both took center stage, and their muselike influence on each other is evident in this jacket.

(Entry written by Myra Walker)

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