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"Roseraie"

Design House House of Lanvin French
Designer Jeanne Lanvin French
spring/summer 1923
Not on view
Jeanne Lanvin was apprenticed to a milliner and a dressmaker before opening her own millinery shop in 1889. She expanded into dressmaking when her clients began asking for the ensembles in which she adorned her daughter, Marguerite di Pietro (1897-1958). Her style embodied the femininity of youth in a most modern way with meticulous and relatively sparse surface embellishments and robe de style silhouettes, which could be worn by women of all ages. Lanvin's aptitude can be seen through her house's 1920s expansion into fur, lingerie, men's wear, household goods and perfume. She even had the forethought to open her own dye factory which produced the inimitable 'Lanvin blue.' The longevity of the House of Lanvin can be credited to her attentive management and design standards from its inception.

The ribbon flower head designs of "Roseraie" are reminiscent of the floral designs of Art Nouveau architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh (1868-1928) and his wife Margaret MacDonald Mackintosh (1865-1933). Lanvin's version was originally created as a swatch at one of her embroidery studios in 1918-1919, according to Dean L. Merceron in his book "Lanvin." It was later used in this latticework to suggest a sense of youthful beauty evocative of designs at the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. Lanvin's ability to manipulate applied ribbonwork, such as this, is one which she utilized continually to great success.

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • Title: "Roseraie"
  • Design House: House of Lanvin (French, founded 1889)
  • Designer: Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
  • Date: spring/summer 1923
  • Culture: French
  • Medium: silk
  • Credit Line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Anonymous gift, 1964
  • Object Number: 2009.300.1318a, b
  • Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute

More Artwork

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Hat, House of Lanvin French, Cotton, wire, French
Hat
House of Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin
ca. 1918
Dress shirt, House of Lanvin French, cotton, French
Dress shirt
House of Lanvin
early 20th century
Overcoat, House of Lanvin French, Wool, French
Overcoat
House of Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin
1934
Evening coat, House of Lanvin French, wool, fur, French
Evening coat
House of Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin
fall/winter 1932–33
Hat, House of Lanvin French, Straw, silk, French
Hat
House of Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin
ca. 1935

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