Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of H. Gregory Thomas, 1959
Not on view
After closing the couture house during World War II, Chanel, with characteristic determination, reopened it in 1954. When the first collection was not met favorably by critics, she persevered, eventually succeeding with an updated look that appealed to her loyal clientele, as well as a new group of discerning women. While the silhouette of this ensemble does not immediately identify it as the work of Chanel, the concept (a practical pairing of a dress and a coat with matching lining), details (the turned back cuffs and camellia trim) and black-and-white coloration are signature elements of Chanel's aesthetic.