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Evening coat

Design House:
Fortuny (Italian, founded 1906)
Designer:
Mariano Fortuny (Spanish, Granada 1871–1949 Venice)
Date:
ca. 1920
Culture:
Italian
Medium:
silk, metal
Dimensions:
Length at CB: 34 in. (86.4 cm)
Credit Line:
Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Caroline A. L. Pratt Fund, 1969
Accession Number:
2009.300.468
Not on view
Spanish-born artist and designer Mariano Fortuny was active in Italy, where he established a textile workshop and a commercial silk printing factory--a version of which still operates today. Best known for his beautiful textiles and unstructured garments, Fortuny continually referenced historical and non-Western sources, reviving and creating complex fabric treatments and dyeing techniques.

This Fortuny evening coat, with its signature silhouette, adapts the T-shape of the Coptic tunic, while the designer's famous palmette pattern borrows from Persian motifs. The rich color contrasts and deliberate use of gold stencilling are a testament to Fortuny's skill. The aqua velvet provides a soft contrast to the shimmering gold details, which in turn add dimension to a unseen element: a peach satin lining.
Marking: Label: "Mariano Fortuny/Venise"
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