Gilded silver, turquoise, glass pastes, silk velvet, metal threads
Overall: 33 1/16 in. (84 cm)
Gift of The Salgo Trust for Education, New York, in memory of Nicolas M. Salgo, 2010
Not on view
Belts were showpieces, and though not worn every day, they might suffer over time due to the fragility of the textiles and delicate goldsmith work on them. Thus six of the rosettes in this example are nineteenth-century replacements. It is not clear if the silk velvet fabric with its gold-wrapped threads is original. When new, the ground of the buckles was covered with blue enamel to set off the pierced architectural arcade motifs with incorporated figural reliefs.
Literature Tihamér Gyárfás. A brassai ötvösség története. Brassó, 1912, p. 101, no. 136. Gold Boxes, Objects of Vertu and European Silver. Sale cat., Sotheby’s, London, July 6, 1981, p. 42, no. 162. Judit H. Kolba. Hungarian Silver: The Nicolas M. Salgo Collection. London, 1996, p. 37, no. 13.
References Elemér Kőszeghy. Magyarországi ötvösjegyek a középkortól 1867-ig / Merkzeichen der Goldschmiede Ungarns vom Mittelalter bis 1867. Budapest, 1936, no. 186 [maker’s mark].
[Wolfram Koeppe 2015]
Marking: On the underside of each buckle: maker's mark of Simon Henek
[ sale, Sotheby's, London , July 6, 1981, lot 162; to Salgo ] ; Nicolas M. Salgo (from 1981) ; Salgo Trust for Education (until 2010; to MMA)
Artist: Fourteen identified German (Augsburg) goldsmiths and other German artisans; Japanese (Imari) porcelain makerDate: ca. 1743–45Medium: Gilt silver, hard-paste porcelain, cut glass, walnut, carved and partially gilt coniferous wood, blind-tooled and partially gilt leather, partially gilt steel and iron, textiles, moiré paper, hog's bristleAccession: 2005.364.1a–d–.48On view in:Gallery 551