Attributed to India, Deccan, Burhanpur or Hyderabad
Cotton; painted, with applied gold leaf
Robe: L. 55 in. (139.7 cm)
W. 80 in. (203.2 cm)
Case: L. 78 in. (198.1 cm)
W. 36 in. (91.4 cm)
D. 36 in. (91.4 cm)
Rogers Fund, 1929
Not on view
This man’s robe, called a jama, is decorated with delicate pink flowers painted individually by hand and outlined in gold leaf. Gold leaf is also lavished on the collar and lappets which tie at the side of the chest. As seen in contemporary portraits, this type of garment was worn at courts throughout India, calf-length in the seventeenth century and ankle-length in the eighteenth century, but the painstaking method of painting the design on the cloth associate this robe with the Deccan, in central India.
[ Imre Schwaiger, London, until 1929; sold to MMA]
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Masterpieces of Indian Art in The Metropolitan Museum of Art," January 18, 1973–April 1, 1973, no catalogue.
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Sultans of Deccan India, 1500-1700: Opulence and Fantasy," April 20, 2015–July 26, 2015, no. 182.
Dimand, Maurice S. A Guide to an Exhibition of Oriental Rugs and Textiles. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1935. p. 34, ill. fig. 28 (b/w).
Ettinghausen, Richard. "Islamic Art." Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin vol. 33, no. 1 (Spring 1975). ill. p. 44 (color).
Welch, Stuart Cary. The Islamic World. vol. 11. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1987. pp. 146-47, ill. fig. 112 (color).
Calza, Gian Carlo. "The Great Emperor of India." In Akbar. Milan: Skira, 2012. pp. 74-75, ill. fig. 42 (color).
Haidar, Navina, and Marika Sardar. "Opulence and Fantasy." In Sultans of Deccan India 1500–1700. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2015. no. 182, p. 306, ill. pl. 182 (color).