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Textile Fragment with Ogival Pattern

Object Name:
Fragment
Date:
14th century
Geography:
Egypt or Syria
Culture:
Islamic
Medium:
Silk; lampas
Dimensions:
Textile: H. 21 1/4 in. (54 cm) W. 14 in. (35.6 cm) Mount: H. 26 3/8 in. (67 cm) W. 20 in. (50.8 cm) D. 7/8 in. (2.2 cm)
Classification:
Textiles-Woven
Credit Line:
Fletcher Fund, 1946
Accession Number:
46.156.17
Not on view
Influenced by Chinese and Mongol prototypes, this fragment shows a repeating pattern of an ogival vine scroll that undulates around Chinese-style lotus blossoms enclosing a naskh inscription. The inscription reads "The Sultan, the King," in mirror image, a reference to an unnamed Mamluk sultan. The combination of these elements—the Eastern origin of the design, an inscription invoking the ruling elite, and the sumptuousness of the fabric— were the most common characteristics of luxury textiles of the period, and the visual manifestation of the long-lasting trade relations between China and the eastern Mediterranean.
Inscription: Inscription in Arabic in naskhi script, repeated within medallions, in mirror image:
السلطان الملك
The sultan, the king

Marking: See link panel.
[ Giorgio Sangiorgi, Rome, until 1946; to Loewi]; [ Adolph Loewi, Los Angeles, 1946; sold to MMA]
Mackie, Louise W. "Toward an Understanding of Mamluk Silks: National and International Considerations." Muqarnas vol. 2 (1984). p. 136, ill. pl. 15 (b/w).

Ekhtiar, Maryam, Sheila R. Canby, Navina Haidar, and Priscilla P. Soucek, ed. Masterpieces from the Department of Islamic Art in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1st ed. ed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. no. 115, pp. 166-167, ill. p. 167 (color).



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