Textile: L. 48 in. (121.9 cm)
W. 26 1/2 in. (67.3 cm)
Mount: L. 53 1/4 in. (135.3 cm)
W. 32 in. (81.3 cm)
D. 1 in. (2.5 cm)
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1952
Not on view
Spectacular, large‑pattern silks were favored materials for luxury garments among the courtly elite of sixteenth-century Istanbul, and were often used for the bold, richly colored caftans of the Ottoman sultans. The weave here, referred to in Turkish as kemha, incorporates metal‑wrapped thread into a lampas, or multiweave fabric. Ottoman kemha fabrics typically combine a satin ground with a design executed in twill and highlighted with gold. Catching the light, their glittering patterns appear to float above a shimmering background.
Dikran G. Kelekian, New York (by 1926–d. 1951; his estate, New York, 1951–52;sold to MMA)
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