Art/ Collection/ Art Object

Noh Costume (Nuihaku) with Ivy, Incense Wrappers, and Bamboo Blinds

Edo period (1615–1868)
first half of the 18th century
Silk embroidery and gold leaf on silk satin
60 x 50 in. (152.4 x 127 cm)
Credit Line:
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1932
Accession Number:
Not on view
Garments decorated with nuihaku, a technique combining embroidery and applied metallic leaf, were first made in the late fifteenth century. The technique became extremely popular on women’s kosode (garment with small sleeve openings) during the Momoyama period (1573–1615), particularly for creating naturalistic, complex patterns. Nuihaku garments were occasionally donated to outstanding Noh actors, and the term became synonymous with sumptuous Noh robes.

The gold-leaf background on this robe suffuses the ivy, incense wrappers, and bamboo blinds with golden light. Elegant nuihaku, like this one, were worn wrapped around the waist as outer garments, mostly by actors playing female roles. On stage, actors could take advantage of the light-reflecting qualities of the applied metallic leaf.
Related Objects

Robe (Kosode) with Shells and Sea Grasses

Date: early 17th century Medium: Embroidery and gold leaf on plain-weave silk patterned with warp floats Accession: 1992.253 On view in:Not on view

Robe (Kosode) with Cherry Blossoms and Cypress Fence

Date: second half of the 17th century Medium: Silk and metallic thread embroidery with resist dyeing on satin damask Accession: 1980.222 On view in:Not on view

Robe (Kosode) with Mandarin Orange Tree and Auspicious Characters

Date: second half of the 18th century Medium: Dyed and embroidered silk crepe with couched gold-wrapped threads Accession: 2002.325 On view in:Gallery 231

Guardian Lion-Dogs

Date: mid-13th century Medium: Japanese cypress with lacquer, gold leaf, and color Accession: 2015.300.257a, b On view in:Gallery 223

Woman's Ceremonial Robe (The Bat Medallion Robe)

Date: first half of the18th century Medium: Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk satin Accession: 43.119 On view in:Not on view