Art/ Collection/ Art Object
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Dress ornament

Designer:
Georges Fouquet (French, 1862–1957)
Date:
ca. 1923
Medium:
Jade, onyx, diamonds, enamel, platinum
Dimensions:
9 x 3 3/4 x 1/2 in. (22.9 x 9.5 x 1.3 cm)
Classification:
Jewelry
Credit Line:
Gift of Eva and Michael Chow, 2001
Accession Number:
2001.723
Rights and Reproduction:
© 2016 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York
Not on view
In 1895 Georges Fouquet took over the Paris jewelry firm-at the time known for its wide range of historicist styles-established by his father in 1860. Reinvigorating it with a decidedly modern spirit, he continued to supply his fashionable clientele with exquisite jewels in the latest styles through the 1930s. Many influences contributed to the French Art Deco style. One was the exoticism of the Far East, and this dress ornament typifies that theatrical taste. Its unexpected combination of colors and juxtaposition of materials, including Asian jade, are appropriately matched to the motif of a Chinese mask. The extraordinarily large scale of the jewel suggests that it was probably intended to be a tour-de-force exhibition piece; its weight easily would have torn, or at least compromised, the drape of a delicate dress fabric.
private collection, [Paris?] (until 1985; sale, Champin, Lombrail, Gautier, Enghien les Bains, December 15, 1985, no. 112; sold to Chow); Michael and Eva Chow, Los Angeles (1985–2001; their gift to MMA)

New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Significant Objects," November 26, 2002–May 2, 2004, no catalogue.

New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Art Deco Paris," June 8, 2004–February 6, 2005, no catalogue.

New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Masterpieces of Modern Design: Selections from the Collection," May 30–October 5, 2008, no catalogue.

New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Masterpieces of French Art Deco," August 4, 2009–January 23, 2011, no catalogue.

Kansas City, Mo. Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art. "Inventing the Modern World: Decorative Arts at the World's Fairs, 1851–1939," April 14–August 19, 2012, no. 150 (as "Corsage ornament").

Pittsburgh. Carnegie Museum of Art. "Inventing the Modern World: Decorative Arts at the World's Fairs, 1851–1939," October 13, 2012–February 24, 2013, no. 150 (as "Corsage ornament").

Henri Clouzot. "Le Bijou moderne." L'Illustration no. 4422 (December 3, 1927), p. 545.

Yvonne Brunhammer. The Art Deco Style. London, 1983, p. 111.

Sylvia Raulet. Art Deco Jewelry. New York, 1985, p. 228.

Dan Klein, Nancy A. McClelland, and Malcolm Haslam. In the Deco Style. New York, 1986, p. 99.

A. Kenneth Snowman, ed. The Master Jewelers. New York, 1990, p. 166.

Catherine L. Futter in Inventing the Modern World: Decorative Arts at the World's Fairs, 1851–1939. Exh. cat., Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City. Pittsburgh, 2012, pp. 138, 268, no. 150, fig. 48 (color).

Jared Goss. French Art Deco. New York, 2014, pp. 99–100, 256, no. 23, ill. (color).



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