Noh Costume (Chōken) with Paulownia

18th century

Not on view

Probably originally a reference to a type of silk, chōken (literally “long silk”) were garments worn during the Muromachi period (1392–1573) by young boys of elite samurai families. High-ranking samurai gifted Noh actors with elegant chōken hitatare (long-sleeved jacket paired with a trouser-skirt) to use as Noh costumes; gradually the term came to mean Noh robes. Typically, chōken are made of silk gauze patterned with gold supplementary wefts. This robe is decorated with two sizes of paulownia flower in gold, white, peach, orange, and green on a purple gauze ground. Chōken were often used in dances by male actors playing elegant female characters, or as costumes for gentle male characters.

Artwork Details

Overview

Provenance

Exhibition History

References

紫地桐模様長絹
Title: Noh Costume (Chōken) with Paulownia
Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
Date: 18th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Silk gauze (ro) brocaded with silk and metallic thread
Dimensions: 44 1/4 x 80 in. (112.4 x 203.2 cm)
Classification: Costumes
Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Howard Mansfield, 1950
Object Number: 50.110.2
Curatorial Department: Asian Art

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