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Ensemble

Designer:
Jean Paul Gaultier (French, born 1952)
Date:
1994
Culture:
French
Medium:
cotton, ink
Dimensions:
Length at CB (a): 27 1/4 in. (69.2 cm) Length at Side Seam (b): 42 in. (106.7 cm)
Credit Line:
Gift of Richard Martin, 1994
Accession Number:
1994.578.3a, b
Not on view
President Eisenhower's famous idiom "the military-industrial complex" is the starting point of this Gaultier outfit. Olive-green and cargo pants suggest the military or paramilitary. But the military rigor is impugned by indefatigable graffiti. Graffiti--that paradigm for art historian Kirk Varnedoe of high art informed by low art--defaces the military appearance. A medium of defilement and of language--often slightly vulgar in this instance--sheathes the facade of the proper soldier. Given Gaultier's many ingenious permutations of sailors, his cognate transfiguration of the army man is hardly surprising.
Marking: [label] (a) "GAULTIER JEAN'S/PARIS"
[label] (b) "Gaultier/HAUTE JEANERIE/JEAN'S/TAILORED/D-100-MODSON CA 23929"
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