Twentieth-century historicism is, by necessity, very cognizant. To wit, Vogue reported on December 1, 1922: "The more ardently one follows the new mode, the farther one slips into the past. One obeys the latest dictates from Paris, and, behold, one resembles the heroine of Jane Austen's day, the later 'eighties, or even the Orient in its efflorescence." This skirt with panniers is an unmistakable eighteenth-century revival. It may have been a fancy-dress commission, as it is somewhat unusual within the oeuvre of the Callot Soeurs.