Over Robe (Uchikake) with Fans and Flowers
Edo period (1615–1868)
second half of the 18th–first half of the 19th century
Silk and metallic-thread embroidery on resist-dyed silk satin damask (rinzu)
Overall: 66 x 48 in. (167.6 x 121.9 cm)
Purchase, Seymour Fund, Mrs. Donald Oenslager Gift and Gifts in memory of Gertrude Carp, 1988
High-ranking samurai women wore luxurious uchikake like this one in the late Edo period. The distinguishing characteristics of this type of robe are color and pattern. Usually arrayed on a red or white ground, various floral patterns alternate in a blocklike layout with a nonfloral pattern, such as stylized waves, key-fret patterns, or fans (as here). On this robe, chrysanthemums, peonies, and cascading wisteria mingle with colorful butterflies executed in kanoko tiedye and silk and metallic-thread embroidery. The damask ground is embellished with more chrysanthemums and a geometric key-fret pattern.
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