Brooch

This exquisite brooch, marked by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., features a large white opal set in an Egyptian-inspired gold frame with a scarab at the top, Egyptian figures on each long side, and a stylized ibis below. Unfurled wings and lotus blossoms are ornamented in red, blue, and green enamels. This piece exemplifies Marcus & Co.’s work in the Egyptian revival style, a taste that captivated the imagination of jewelers and their patrons from the 1860s into the 1920s. Evoking exotic treasures unearthed from Egyptian royal tomb, jewelry adorned with talismanic motifs such as scarabs, lotus blossoms, sphinxes, and ibises were believed to offer protection from evil and the promise of eternal life. Although authentic ancient Egyptian jewelry was highly desirable, it was also extremely scarce, thereby increasing the demand for newly created interpretations.

Prior to establishing Marcus & Co with his sons in 1892, German immigrant Herman Marcus (1828–1899) was employed by the prestigious New York City firms of Tiffany & Co. and Black, Starr & Frost, and for a time he partnered with the jeweler Theodore B. Starr. He was known for applying his knowledge of art and mythology to the jewels his company created, and upon his death a remembrance published in The Jeweler's Circular (Oct0ber 25, 1899, pp. 8-9) stated "Few men who have ever been in the jewelry trade in New York have been more thoroughly versed in their business than was Herman Marcus." Marcus & Co. remained in business until 1942.