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Twill Damask Textile with Dragon Roundels, late 8th–9th century
China or Central Asia
Silk; H. (weft) 24 1/2 in. (62 cm)
Purchase, Barbara and William Karatz Gift, 1998 (1998.147)

Description

This rare textile shows the impact of artistic exchanges across the Asian continent. Rows of "pearls" used in the pattern derive ultimately from Sasanian Iran. Pearl roundels occurred further west—in Byzantine silks—and also became popular further east, in Sogdian silks of eighth-century Central Asia, for example. The dragon has been a significant presence in Chinese art for thousands of years, but those depicted here have no heads. A flaw in the weave program may explain this lack, or the textile may have been woven in Central Asia, where the dragon motif was less well understood.

Several early- to mid-eighth-century monochrome silks survive with very similar patterns. Some were excavated—primarily from early-eighth-century Central Asian sites. Others were preserved, beginning in the mid-eighth century, in the Shosoin imperial repository in Japan. Those from Central Asian excavations feature twill patterns on a plain-weave ground, thus differing from this example, which is a twill-on-twill damask (ling), like at least one of the silks preserved in Japan. Ling came to be woven in China during the Tang period, achieving widespread popularity in later dynasties. This textile, with its early-eighth-century-style pattern and unexpectedly innovative weave, may prove key to understanding the development of twill damask in China.

(Entry written by Joyce Denney)

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