On view Rotation 2, November 9, 2013–January 12, 2014Garments decorated with nuihaku, a technique combining embroidery with designs in applied gold or silver leaf, were first created in the late fifteenth century. Such designs became extremely popular in women’s kosode (garments with “small-sleeve” openings) during the Momoyama period (1568–1615), when naturalistic patterns that could not easily be woven were fully exploited in embroidery and applied metallic leaf. Nuihaku were occasionally donated to outstanding Noh actors, and the term nuihaku became synonymous with sumptuous Noh robes.This robe’s ivy, incense wrappers, and bamboo blinds are suffused with golden light, owing principally to the gold-leaf background of the fabric. Elegant nuihaku of this type were wrapped around the waist as outer garments, mostly by actors playing female roles. On stage, actors could take advantage of the light-reflecting qualities of the costume.