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Christianity's First Centuries in Africa
Reflections on Christianity: Two Perspectives on Ethiopia's Living Tradition
By Alisa LaGamma; Chester Higgins, Jr., photographer
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Figure 5
figure 5

     During the first centuries A.D., immense stone palaces were constructed at Aksum in the distinctive architectural style represented illusionistically on the stelae. Over the course of his visit to Ethiopia between 1520 and 1526, the Portuguese chaplain Francisco Alvares recorded the earliest account of the city to come down to us. According to his commentary, Aksum was the residence of several queens, most celebrated of which was Sheba (Munro-Hay, Ethiopia, 246). Among the numerous ancient sites associated with her is Dungur, which according to local tradition, served as her palace. The vestiges of Dungur and an adjacent field of one hundred stelae survive west of modern Aksum. In this case, the archaeological record and oral history are at odds, given that as a contemporary of Solomon, Sheba would have lived during the tenth century B.C. whereas Aksum appears to have been settled a thousand years later and Dungur built during the sixth century (Phillipson, Monuments, 142).
     Such multiple-story structures were built of granite blocks and timber frameworks with rubble walling fixed in place with mud mortar. The overarching aesthetic and design principles articulated in Aksum’s secular structures and echoed in the stelae embraces exterior references to the strength of the timberwork and load-bearing stone. It is striking that structural elements not only determine the scale and proportions of those buildings but serve as ornamental features. The archaeologist Peter Garlake has commented on this distinctive approach: “The logic of building was laid bare. Truth stood unadorned. A respect for structure as good and beautiful in itself, the basis of all Aksumite architecture” (Garlake, 87).
     It was Islamic control of the Red Sea that gradually cut off Aksum from its trade links, leading to its decline and the isolation of Christian Ethiopia by the seventh century. Subsequent contact between Christian Ethiopia and Alexandria and Jerusalem was conducted overland via Nubia. Aksum was eventually abandoned as a capital, and the center of political authority shifted southeast. There is no indication, however, that with its political sidelining Aksum’s ecclesiastic importance diminished. Sustained reverence for Aksum is rooted in its role as the birthplace of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church dominated by its mother church, Saint Mary of Zion (Phillipson, Monuments, 111). Because of the city's status as a major religious and ceremonial center, kings and emperors in later periods chose to be crowned at Aksum.
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