17th century (Textile: second half of the 16th century)
Russia; Textile: Turkey, for the European market
Lampas, silk and metal-wrapped thread
21 x 23 in (53.3 x 58.4 cm)
Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Bella Mabury
Not on view
The textile used to make this chalice cover, featuring serrated saz leaves on an undulating vine, represents another major stylistic group within the Ottoman silk-making tradition. The rhythmic arrangement of vines is thought to derive from fourteenth-century Chinese brocaded silks, but by the sixteenth century the pattern had been modified into a distinctively Ottoman style.
Turkish silks were especially prized in Russia in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. At formal events, Russian nobility wore clothing made of richly brocaded Turkish textiles, and in Russian churches the clergy wore vestments and used objects fashioned from Ottoman silks such as this wine-chalice cover.