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The Unicorn Is Killed and Brought to the Castle (detail), ca. 14951505
South Netherlandish
Wool warp, wool, silk, silver, and gilt wefts; 12 ft. 1 in. x 12 ft. 9 in. (368 x 389 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Gift of John D. Rockefeller Jr., 1937 (37.80.5)
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Some generalizations are possible, however. It was men who "drove" fashion during the Middle Ages, since they brought back novelties from travels or battlefields, exploits largely out of bounds to women. It was indeed the change from chain mail to plate armor in the fourteenth century that gave rise to the closely fitted, padded undergarment, or pourpoint, and the contoured hose worn under the chafing metal edges. Ambitious "jeunes" were quick to have these novel styles made up in imported Italian luxury fabrics to wear at court, provoking many clerics to complain about indecency in dress. By contrast, the few women depicted here are demure in their modest necklines, and while their foreheads still appear shaved as earlier in the fifteenth century, casual wisps of hair frame their faces under the simple hoods with turn-back linings.
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