Fashion Unbound: Charles James at the Met

Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978). "Butterfly", 1955. Silk. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. John de Menil, 1957 (2009.300.816)

«The current exhibition Charles James: Beyond Fashion, the first in the Museum's new Anna Wintour Costume Center, features the work of one of the most significant couturiers of the twentieth century. When you walk into the exhibition, the lighting and placement of Charles James's glamorous ball gowns make you feel as though you're a guest at an enchanting party, and the dresses, which have names such as "Butterfly," "Clover Leaf," "Swan," and "Diamond," are exquisite.»

I am particularly awestruck by the artistry of the "Butterfly" gown, pictured above. The front of the gown is a straight, silk sheath dress with a stunning bustle behind. The dress color changes when viewed from different angles and is a glorious mixture of browns and creams. There are yards and yards of tulle in the back…twenty-five to be exact.

Left: Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978). "Clover Leaf", 1953. Silk, synthetic. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Cornelius V. Whitney, 1953 (2009.300.779). Right: Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978). "Taxi", ca. 1932. Wool, synthetic. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Alan W. Kornberg Gift, 2013 (2013.309)

James considered the "Clover Leaf" gown to be his masterpiece. It is a long, strapless white dress with a wide band of black velvet around the skirt. This gown is a technical masterwork: the ultimate gliding dress. Interestingly, though James's ball gowns had all sorts of complex underpinnings, his everyday wear was quite simple. He made a dress called the "Taxi" dress that was supposedly so easy to put on that women could change into it while in a taxicab.

With its kaleidoscope of colors and textures, this exhibition is definitely fashionista eye candy, yet thanks to analytical animations displayed alongside the dresses, you also get to understand the intricate and complicated methods James used to create his dresses. This exhibition runs until August 10; don't miss it!