The Metropolitan Museum of Art - Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century

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Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century

Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, with an introduction by Mimi Hellman (2006)

This title is out of print.

Graphis Gold Award (2008)

Description

During the reigns of Louis XV (1723–74) and Louis XVI (1774–92) fashion and furniture merged ideals of beauty and pleasure through their forms and embellishments. With their fragile surfaces and delicate proportions, tables, chairs, and other pieces of furniture enhanced the elite's indulgence in leisurely pursuits, fostering highly complex standards of etiquette and performance. Men and women restated the splendor of the Rococo and Neoclassical interiors of the period in their opulent costumes. For the eighteenth-century libertine and femme du monde, a refined elegance and delicate voluptuousness infused their world with a mood of amorous delight.

Dangerous Liaisons takes its theme from this era, when trifling in love propelled the energies of elite men and women, providing almost daily stimulating encounters, and when, as has been written, "morality lost but society gained." In Choderlos de Laclos's novel of the same name, Cécile, a young girl, is praised by her tutor in the worldly arts: "She is really delightful! She has neither character nor principles ... everything about her indicates the keenest sensations." Valmont, her seducer, notes the following morning, "Nothing could have been more amusing." Valmont has won a game in the contest of lovemaking.

The beautifully photographed and handsomely reproduced images on the following pages bring these amorous adventures to life. The vignettes, staged for the widely praised exhibition "Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century," held at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2004, feature eighteenth-century costumes in the Museum's spectacular French period rooms, The Wrightsman Galleries. The artfully composed scenes include: a woman sitting for her portrait while her husband flirts with her friend; a man being granted an audience with a woman in a peignoir who is having her hair dressed; a vendor embracing the wife of an old man, his back turned, examining a table for sale; a girl receiving more than a harp lesson from her teacher, while her oblivious chaperone reads an erotic novel; a woman giving up her garter as a memento of a very private dinner. The entertaining and knowledgeable texts set the scenes perfectly.

Table of contents

Sponsor's Statement

Foreword
Philippe de Montebello

Preface

Interior Motives: Seduction by Decoration in Eighteenth-Century France
Mimi Hellman

The Portrait: An Unexpected Entanglement

The Levée: The Assiduous Admirer

The Music Lesson: A Window of Opportunity

The Withdrawing Room: A Helpful Valet

The Masked Beauty

The Favorite

The Broken Vase: A Consoling Merchant

The Card Game: Cheating at Cavagnole

The Late Supper: The Memento

Catalogue

Illustrations
Select Bibliography
Acknowledgments

About the authors

Harold Koda is Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Andrew Bolton is Associate Curator of The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Mimi Hellman is Assistant Professor of Art History at Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs, New York.

Press reviews

Library Journal

"... beautifully and thoughtfully illustrated ... veritable feast for the eyes and titillation of the mind."

Tags

Authors

Andrew Bolton | Harold Koda | Mimi Hellman

Keywords

European Art in the 17th–18th Centuries

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Voorhies, James. "Francisco de Goya (1746–1828) and the Spanish Enlightenment." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Watt, Melinda. "Textile Production in Europe: Embroidery, 1600–1800 ." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Watt, Melinda. "Textile Production in Europe: Lace, 1600–1800 ." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Watt, Melinda. "Textile Production in Europe: Printed, 1600–1800 ." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Watt, Melinda. "Textile Production in Europe: Silk, 1600–1800." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

White, Veronica. "Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680)." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Titles by author (41)

Andrew Bolton

Print Titles

Bolton, Andrew, with an essay by Ian Buruma. AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2006.

Bolton, Andrew, with an essay by Michael Chabon. Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2008.

Bolton, Andrew, with contributions by Shannon Bell Price and Elyssa Da Cruz. Wild: Fashion Untamed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004.

Bolton, Andrew, with contributions by Tim Blanks and Susannah Frankel. Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011.

Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, with an introduction by Mimi Hellman. Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2006.

Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, with contributions by Mary E. Davis, Caroline Evans, Jared Goss, Heather Hess, Caroline Rennolds Milbank, and Kenneth E. Silver, and an introduction by Nancy J. Troy. Poiret. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2007.

Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, with contributions by Rhonda Garelick, Karl Lagerfeld, Caroline Rennolds Milbank, Kenneth E. Silver, and Nancy J. Troy. Chanel. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2005.

Online Titles

Bolton, Andrew. "Le Colis de Trianon-Versailles and Paris Openings." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Bolton, Andrew. "The Kilt." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Bolton, Andrew. "White." Connections. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011.

Harold Koda

Print Titles

Houghton, James R., Katherine Baetjer, Dorothea Arnold, Joan Aruz, Carlos A. Picon, Peter Barnet, Everett Fahy, Keith Christiansen, Walter Liedtke, Colta Ives, George R. Goldner, Ian Wardropper, Thomas P. Campbell, Dita Amory, Laurence B. Kanter, Morrison H. Heckscher, J. Kenneth Moore, Hilde Limondjian, Stuart W. Pyhrr, Donald J. La Rocca, Maxwell K. Hearn, James C. Y. Watt, Stefano Carboni, Julie Jones, Alisa LaGamma, Eric Kjellgren, Virginia-Lee Webb, Gary Tinterow, Malcolm Daniel, Harold Koda, and John P. O'Neill. Philippe de Montebello and The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1977–2008. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.

Koda, Harold. 100 Dresses. New York, NY: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010.

Koda, Harold. Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2001.

Koda, Harold. Goddess: The Classical Mode. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2003.

Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, with an introduction by Mimi Hellman. Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2006.

Koda, Harold, and Kohle Yohannan. The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.

Koda, Harold, and Richard Martin. The Four Seasons. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1997.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Bare Witness: Clothing and Nudity. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1996.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Bloom!. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1995.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Christian Dior. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1996.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1993.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Haute Couture. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1995.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Infra-Apparel. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1993.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Madame Grès. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1994.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1994.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Swords into Ploughshares. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1995.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Two by Two. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1996.

Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Waist Not: The Migration of the Waist, 1800–1960. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1994.

Online Titles

Koda, Harold. "Classical Art and Modern Dress." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold. "Classicism in Modern Dress." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold. "Contemporary Deconstructions of Classical Dress." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold. "Dress Rehearsal: The Origins of the Costume Institute." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold. "The Chiton, Peplos, and Himation in Modern Dress." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold. "The Chopine." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold. "The Greek Key and Divine Attributes in Modern Dress." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold and Andrew Bolton. "Paul Poiret (1879–1944)." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold and Richard Martin. "Haute Couture." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Koda, Harold and Richard Martin. "Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress." Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.

Mimi Hellman

Print Titles

Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, with an introduction by Mimi Hellman. Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2006.

Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century

This exhibition focuses on dress and its aesthetic interplay with art, furniture, and the broader decorative arts between 1750 and 1789. Presented in the dramatic setting of The Wrightsman Galleries, the Museum's French period rooms, the exhibition explores the dressed body's spatial negotiation of the eighteenth-century interior as a choreography of seduction and erotic play. The coquettish Polonaise dress with its hem raised to reveal the ankle is juxtaposed with a side table that transforms into a dressing table through mechanisms similar to the gown's hidden ties. The arch of the foot introduced by shoes with a Louis-style heel is seen with the scrolling legs of tables and chairs from the period shod in ormolu sabots. Lavish banyans, the "undress" of eighteenth-century rakes, and fans, an accessory that could be wielded with both decorous and flirtatious intent, are presented as the favored modes of beguilement of the eighteenth-century man about town and his femme du monde counterpart.