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Printing Instructions

Blithe Spirit: The Windsor Set

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Enlarge Wedding Ensemble, 1937
Mainbocher (French, born America, 1890–1976)
Silk, kid, straw, and coq feathers
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Gift of the Duchess of Windsor, 1950 (CI 50.110a–l)

Description

Always correctly dressed, the Duchess of Windsor's wedding ensemble was perfectly appropriate for the occasion. Designed by Mainbocher, it comprised a simple, floor-length dress with a matching long-sleeved jacket. Modest, without being prim or prudish, it was typical of the Duchess of Windsor's fashion austerity. Even the gloves were designed specifically to accommodate the wedding ring. Not everyone, however, appreciated the Duchess's choice of outfit with its subtle nuances. The Duchess's friend Lady Diana Cooper was typically vociferous, "I didn't like the dress, and as for the hat, it was appalling."

The silk crepe was originally "Wallis Blue," a color developed by Mainbocher to match the Duchess of Windsor's eyes. Due to a defect in the stability of the dye, the material has uniformly lost its color. The shoes and the coq feathers decorating the hat, however, have retained the original light periwinkle blue.

"The Most Copied Dress in Fashion History"

On the eve of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor's wedding, Life magazine reported, "Women of the world were little absorbed in the conventional satin gowns of England's new Queen. What Mrs. Wallis Warfield Simpson would wear, however, roused their avid curiosity." Just over a week after the nuptials, copies of the Duchess of Windsor's wedding dress, which reportedly cost $250, were appearing in New York department stores. Bonwit Teller sold a version for $25, Lord & Taylor for $16.95, and Klein's cash-and-carry store for a mere $8.90. Within a few months, copies of the "Wally" dress were being sold in department stores throughout America in a range of different styles, colors and materials.

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