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Blithe Spirit: The Windsor Set
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"Infanta" Evening Dress, 1939
Cristobal Balenciaga (French, born Spain, 18951972)
Ivory silk satin and black silk velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Gift of Mrs. John Chambers Hughes, 1958 (CI 58.34.21a,b)
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Description
Balenciaga's "Infanta" dress was inspired by the paintings of Diego Velázquez, the official court painter of King Philip IV of Spain. It echoes the shape and formality of seventeenth-century Spanish court costume. The Infanta was the eldest daughter of the King and Queen of Spain, and in paintings by Velázquez she is depicted wearing a dress with a tight-fitting bodice and a very wide skirt supported by panniers. As well as referencing this silhouette, Baleneciaga's "Infanta" dress also anticipates Christian Dior's celebrated post-war "New Look."
In 1939, Vogue noted, "An army of heroine figures invaded the couture collections." For the Spanish-born designer, the Infanta, on whose shoulders the future of the Spanish crown rested, was a symbol of hope and glorification.
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