The terms describing ancient Greek dress in this Web feature, derived from the exhibition publication, are of a general character, and do not conform necessarily with definitions of scholars, specialists, and students of the field. They are accompanied, through pop-up diagrams, by drawings derived from the original work of Anastasia Pekridou-Gorecki. Although small adjustments have been introduced to her concise diagrams for the purposes of readability to a broad audience, the template of her research and studies is clear.

Select a term below to view the accompanying drawing, when applicable.
Apoptygma: The overfold at the top of a peplos.
Chiton: The chemise-like shift worn by men in a knee-length form and by men and women in a floor-length version. Constructed of two rectangles of fabric, generally of linen, the chiton was seamed together in a number of variations. One style was stitched like a closed poncho along the shoulderline and sideseams, with apertures left at the top edge and upper sideseams for the head and arms. A variation of this form incorporated two small rectangular sleeve pieces that made a T-shaped garment. However, the most characteristically Greek variation was accomplished by stitching the two rectangular pieces of fabric together along either sideseam, forming a cylinder with its top edge and hem unstitched. The top edges were then sewn or pinned together to form shoulder seams. The resulting shoulderline orientation of the armhole, perpendicular to the sideseam, introduced a dolman-style drape to the underarm area of the garment. If the rectangles were cut very wide, the topline was pinned or buttoned at regular intervals, creating a fissured shoulderline sometimes referred to as the Ionic sleeve.
View a chiton, a full chiton, a chiton variation, or a chiton variation with sleeves.
Chlamys: The short cloak, or mantle, worn by men.
Himation: The wide rectangular cloak, or mantle, worn by both men and women.
Kolpos: The blouson formed by belting the chiton or peplos.
Peplos: A large rectangular piece of cloth was folded in half to form a cylinder, and then a second time along the topto form an overfold, or apoptygma. The peplos was pinned at the shoulders with fibulae, brooch-like pins. Like the most distinctively Greek form of the chiton, the orientation of the armhole of the peplos was along the topline of the cylinder, creating folds at either underarm area. The right side of the peplos was sometimes left unstitched but more commonly was sewn closed.
View an open peplos or a closed peplos.



The definitions in this section were derived from the exhibition publication, Goddess: The Classical Mode. By Harold Koda. Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2003. The catalogue is available in the Museum's bookshops and online in the Met Store.
The exhibition and the accompanying catalogue were made possible by Gucci.
Many thanks to the Museum's Editorial Department for making portions of the exhibition publication available for online use.
Background image: Model wearing flowing crepe by Vionnet (detail), Vogue, November 15, 1931.
George Hoyningen-Heune / © Vogue, Condé Nast Publications Inc.
