Although Mrs. Kempner's collection reveals a strong loyalty to Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Oscar de la Renta, in the 1960s and 1970s she was enthralled by the work of Madame Grès. In the October 10, 1979, edition of The New York Times she noted, "I have Grès dresses going back twenty years. I use them like a library." Mrs. Kempner's number of Grès pieces, small relative to her other favored designers, nonetheless comprise a survey of Mme. Grès's best efforts. Pleated silk jerseys such as these two examples document the most iconic styles, but alpaca jersey examples and an innovative silk crepe model on view in the exhibition represent lesser known modes.