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Nan Kempner: American Chic

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Enlarge Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, autumn/winter 1982–83
Bodice: black silk velvet; skirt: ivory silk crepe
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.43a, b)

Mrs. Kempner's silhouette of preference for formal evening dress was the narrow "column" gown. In addition, she subscribed to the notion of bareness as an aspect of nighttime glamour. Sometimes, this was expressed in a wide, off-the-shoulder or "bateau" design, but more typically it was seen in her advocacy of a plunging front or back neckline. In this gown of elegant simplicity, Mrs. Kempner has selected a dress that inverts her usual pairing of a white bodice or shirt with a black skirt. Yves Saint Laurent's sensual juxtaposition of a black velvet bodice with the liquid drape of ivory silk crepe serves to highlight the sharp "V" of her décolleté in a dramatic "Madame X" contrast. See an alternate view of this ensemble.

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