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Exhibition Checklist
Exhibition Images
Gallery Texts
Poiret and The Art of The Fashion Plate
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Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)
Les choses de Paul Poiret, 1911
Album of hand-colored pochoirs
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections
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Various Artists, including Simone A. Puget, Charles Martin (French, 1848–1934), Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971), André-Edouard Marty (French, 1882–1974), Jean Louis Boussingault (French, 1883–1943)
Gazette du Bon Ton, 1912–1925
Hand-colored pochoirs
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections
Poiret and The Houses of Doucet and Worth
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"Révérend" Coat worn by Jeanne Boivin-Poiret, 1905
Red wool and ivory silk damask with red silk floss embroidery
Courtesy of Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
Video Animation
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"Paris" Evening Coat worn by Denise Poiret, 1919
Brown silk velvet with placket of red and blue wool and couched silver gilt cording
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.207)
Poiret and Raoul Dufy
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"La Perse" Coat worn by Denise Poiret, 1911
Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953)
Ivory and blue-black block-printed cotton velvet with brown rabbit fur trim
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.199)
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Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Pair of Sconces, early 20th century
Porcelain
Courtesy of the Collection of Karl Lagerfeld
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"Bois de Boulogne" Dinner Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1919
Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953)
Textile manufacture by Bianchini-Férier (French, founded 1880)
Printed polychrome silk, black silk tulle, and black silk broadcloth
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher Fund, 2005 (2005.197a–c)
- "La Rose d'Iribe" Day Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1913
Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953)
Purple silk printed with white rose motifs, and blue black silk velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher Fund, 2005 (2005.198a, b)
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"Homage à Rousseau" Evening Gown, ca. 1910
Black silk satin, black silk georgette, and black crêpe de chine with pearl, seed bead, rhinestone, and silk floss embroidery
Courtesy of The Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Mrs. Henry Clews [52.35.3]
Poiret, Paul Iribe and Georges Lepape
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Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)
Serais-je en avance? from Gazette du Bon Ton, 1912
Gouache on paper
Collection of Karl Lagerfeld
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Opera Coat, 1912
Yellow satin, pale blue silk overlaid with gold filé embroidery, and black silk velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust Gift, 1982 (1982.350.2)
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José Zamora (Spanish, 1890–1971)
Program cover for Le Minaret at the Théâtre de la Renaissance, 1913
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections
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"1811" Evening Gown worn by Denise Poiret, 1907
Pink and purple striped silk and purple chiffon with gold lace trim
Courtesy of Musée de la Mode et du Textile [UF 64-46.1]
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Chest of drawers, ca. 1914
Paul Iribe (French, 1883–1935)
Gabon ebony, fruitwood, amaranth, marble, and black glass
Courtesy of Anthony DeLorenzo
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Paul Iribe (French, 1883–1935)
Les robes de Paul Poiret, 1908
Album of hand-colored pochoirs
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections
Classicism
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"Théâtre des Champs-Élysées" Evening Gown worn with "Espérance" Headdress, 1913
Gown of ivory silk damask and ivory silk tulle over-skirt with rhinestone embroidery; headdress of green and black silk gauze with rhinestone embroidery
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Paul D. Schurgot Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.193a–e)
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Hand Mirror, ca. 1925
Armand-Albert Rateau (French, 1882–1938)
Bronze, ivory, mirror glass
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of the artist, 1925 (25.170)
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Vanity, ca. 1912
Armand Albert Rateau (French, 1882–1938)
Coral lacquer, gilt bronze, and glass
Courtesy of Anthony DeLorenzo
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Dress, ca. 1922-23
Navy and red block-printed silk faille
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. Muriel Draper, 1943 (C.I.43.85.2a, b)
Romanticism
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"Butard" Day Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1912
White linen with coral linen trim
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher Fund, 2005 (2005.190a, b)
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"Rosière" Day Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1911
White linen with pink linen trim
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.188)
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Nightdress worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1920
Pink cotton
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.195)
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Nightdress worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1920
Pink cotton gauze
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.196)
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Nightdress Ensemble worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1920
Orange silk crepe
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.194a–c)
Rosine and Martine
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Jean Badovici (Romanian, 1893–1956)
Intérieurs français, 1925
Hand-colored pochoirs
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, The Abby and Mitch Leigh Foundation Gift, 2003 (2003.610a–rr)
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"Bouclier" Day Dress, 1925
Navy blue wool, red wool, and ivory cotton, with applied red ribbon and printed trompe l'oeil placket with button motif
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. Alfred Rheinstein, 1950 (C.I.50.117)
- "Chinoise" Dressing Table, ca. 1927
Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann (French, 1879–1933) Lacquered wood, silver-plated bronze, and mirror The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Michael Chow, 1986 (1986.399.3a, b)
- "Retombante" Stool, 1916–1918
Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann (French, 1879–1933) Lacquered beech, silvered bronze, and modern upholstery The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Michael Chow, 1986 (1986.399.3a, b)
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon for the perfume "La Rose de Rosine" (1912) Glass, paper, and cotton Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Group of fans, 1920–23 Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Group of Flacons for the perfumes "Fan Fan la Tulipe" (1912), "Mam'zelle Victoire" (1915), and "Pierrot" (1919) Glass, paper, and cotton
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Group of Flacons for the perfumes "La Minaret" (1913), "Nuit de Chine" (1913), "Aladin" (1919), "L'Orient" (1922), "Sakya-Mouni" (1922), and "1925" (1925) Glass, paper, and cotton
- Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971)
Vive la France, 1917 Hand-colored lithograph Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- "Steppe" Jacket worn by Denise Poiret, 1912
Black wool with blue, gray, and white, silk floss embroidery and fox fur trim The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.209)
- "Mademoiselle" Day Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1923
Black wool crepe, red wool broadcloth, and red, blue, green, and white striped wool twill The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.210)
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Table, ca. 1920 Blue and white painted wood Courtesy of the Collection of Karl Lagerfeld
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911) for Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Group of vaporizers and cologne bottles, ca. 1913 Glass and enamel Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911) for Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Group of fans, ca. 1912 Paper and wood Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon for "Chez Poiret" (1912) Glass, paper, and cotton Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Group of powder boxes, 1911–1925 Paper and cotton Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Marie Vassilieff (French, born Russia, 1884) for Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Pierrot doll, ca. 1920 Silver lamé and black silk chiffon Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Carpet, 1927 Multicolored wool pile in stylized floral design Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
"The Thousand and Second Night"
- Fancy Dress Costume probably worn to "The Thousand and Second Night" party, June 24, 1911
Green silk gauze and gold lamé with blue foil appliqué, and gold, blue, pink, coral, and turquoise celluloid bead embroidery The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1983 (1983.8a, b)
- Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953)
Program for "The Thousand and Second Night" party, June 24, 1911 Hand-colored pochoir The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Special Collections
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon of "Nuit Persane" given as a present to guests at "The Thousand and Second Night" party, June 24, 1911 Glass Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Fancy Dress Costume, 1914
Tunic of gold lamé and purple silk satin with faux pearl embroidery and black fur; hat of gold lamé with faux pearl embroidery and aigrette plume Courtesy of Kyoto Costume Institute [AC9330 96-15]
- Fancy Dress Costume, 1913
Hooped tunic of black silk gauze with gold filé embroidery; harem pants of gold lamé Courtesy of Kyoto Costume Institute [AC9330 96-15]
- "Sorbet" Evening Ensemble, 1913
Skirt of black satin; hooped tunic of cream and black satin with red, pink, green, and mauve glass bead embroidery Courtesy of Chicago Historical Society, Gift of Miss Anita Carolyn Blair [1958.182]
- Jupe-Culotte Evening Gown, 1913
Black satin and green silk mousseline with gilt galloon fringe Courtesy of Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
- Evening Gown, ca. 1913
Orange silk chiffon with gold filé and black silk floss embroidery Courtesy of Chicago Historical Society, Gift of Spencer H. Logan, Stuart Logan and Waldo H. Logan [1945.79]
- Pair of Deer that flanked the entrance to Poiret's maison de couture on the avenue d'Antin, ca. 1890
Sabatino de Angelis (Italian) Bronze Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
Orientalism
- Opera Coat, ca. 1910
Purple silk damask and pink silk crepe with purple silk crocheted overlay Courtesy of Beverley Birks and Doris Raymond
- "Nénuphar" Opera Coat worn by Denise Poiret, 1911
Pink silk satin and lilac silk satin with pink silk tulle overlay and pink silk floss embroidery Courtesy of Musée de la Mode et du Textile [UF 63-18-4]
- Headdress worn by Denise Poiret with "Nénuphar" Opera Coat, 1911
Black silk and brilliants Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- "Lavallière" Evening Gown worn by Denise Poiret, 1911
Ivory silk satin and purple silk crepe with silver-plated crystal bead embroidery Courtesy of Musée de la Mode et du Textile [UF 63-18-7]
- "Persane" Evening Ensemble worn by Denise Poiret, 1924
Green silk satin with silver filé brocade, silver lamé and silver braid embroidery Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- Evening Dress, ca. 1923
Orange silk damask with silver filé brocade and silver lamé Courtesy of Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Gift of Mrs. Helen Crocker Russell [54.129.2]
- Day Ensemble, ca. 1922
Blouse of orange silk with black satin and gold lamé trim; jumper of gold lamé with orange silk and black silk satin trim and applied cotton rosettes The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Miriam K. W. Coletti, 1995 (1995.588.3a, b)
- Day Dress, 1922
Black silk and red silk brocade with gold filé The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Leone B. Moats, in memory of Mrs. Wallace Payne Moats, 1979 (1979.428)
- "Feuille d'Automne" Day Ensemble worn by Denise Poiret, 1916
Blouse of orange silk crepe with ivory silk crepe collar; skirt of printed silk; stole of sable fur The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Catharine Breyer Van Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005 (2005.204a–c)
- "Fils du Ciel" Day Dress, 1923
Red silk velvet, black silk satin, and gold filé embroidery Courtesy of Musée de la Mode et du Textile [UF 60-17-1]
- "Manteau d'Auto" Coat worn by Denise Poiret, 1912
Textile by Rodier (French, founded 1848) Blue and oatmeal striped woven linen and blue silk The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Isabel Shults Fund, 2005 (2005.200)
- Dress, ca. 1920
Yellow silk with motifs of camels, palm trees, and pyramids The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. Dudley Wadsworth, 1944 (C.I.44.82a, b)
- Dress worn by Paul and Denise Poiret's daughter, Perrine, ca. 1920
Yellow silk with motifs of camels, palm trees, and pyramids Courtesy of Mark Walsh Leslie Chin
- Screen, ca. 1930
Jean Dunand (French, 1877–1942) Lacquered gilt wood The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Eva and Michael Chow, 2006 (2006.585)
- Pair of Cobra, ca. 1919
Jean Dunand (French, 1877–1942) Gilt bronze The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Rogers Fund, 1970 (1970.198.7, 8)
- Coat worn by Denise Poiret, 1918
Textile by Rodier (French, founded 1848) Ivory and brown striped wool jacquard The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Isabel Shults Fund, 2005 (2005.201)
- Afternoon Coat, 1921
Textile by Rodier (French, founded 1848) Black silk satin and ivory and brown striped wool jacquard Courtesy of Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Mrs. Henry Clews [56.234.3]
- Coat, ca.1920
Ivory and brown wool twill with brown rose motifs The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. David J. Colton, 1964 (C.I.64.7.2)
- Coat, ca. 1919
Black wool faille with white kid cutwork appliqué and white shearling trim The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. David J. Colton, 1961 (C.I.61.40.4)
- Day Ensemble, ca. 1919
Coat of black and white wool check with black wool inserts; dress of back and white wool with black wool cuffs and underskirt Courtesy of Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Mrs. Henry Clews [56.234.2A-C]
The Chemise
- Day Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1912
Blue silk damask The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.386)
Historicism
- Day Dress and Gilet worn by Denise Poiret, 1912
Dress of eggplant silk damask; gilet of wine silk velvet with badger fur trim The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.367a, b)
- Day Dress worn by Denise Poiret, 1921
Purple silk voided velvet with fox fur trim Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
Modernism
- "Pré Catelan" Evening Coat worn by Denise Poiret, 1918
Black silk and gold striped lamé The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher Fund, 2005 (2005.205)
- "Irudrée" Evening Gown, ca. 1922
Gold lamé The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2007 (2007.146)
- Evening Dress, 1925
Gold lamé and gold and black lace with black and silver paillette embroidery Courtesy of Sandy Schreier
- Evening Dress, 1925
Black lace with black and silver paillette embroidery The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. Georges Gudefin, in memory of Mrs. Clarence Herter, 1965 (C.I.65.47.2a, b)
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Chair, ca. 1921 Wood, silk Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Table, ca. 1920 Wood Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911)
Tray, ca. 1920 Multicolored painted paper, tin Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
Poiret and Chanel
- Evening Dress, ca. 1925
Gold lamé and gold lace with faux pearl and gold bugle bead embroidery and gold corded appliqué The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. Robert L. Dodge, 1951 (C.I.51.48.4a, b)
- Evening Ensemble, 1925
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (French, 1883–1971) Black silk chiffon The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Gytha M. Rupp, 1994 (1994.474a, b)
Poiret's Accessories
- "Bahia" Headdress worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1915
Silk with glass and plastic embroidery The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Gerson and Judith Leiber Foundation Gift, 2005 (2005.211)
- Headdress worn by Denise Poiret with "Faun" Evening Dress, 1919
Gold lamé and monkey fur Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- Hair Ornament worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1920
Cotton with plastic bead embroidery The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Gerson and Judith Leiber Foundation Gift, 2005 (2005.206)
- "Flonflon" Headdress worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1920
Black silk with gold metal trim and dyed, stripped, and clipped ostrich feathers The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Gerson and Judith Leiber Foundation Gift, 2005 (2005.191)
- Madeleine Panizon for Paul Poiret
"Trocadéro" hat, ca. 1920 Cream silk with dyed, stripped, and clipped ostrich feathers Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- Turban worn by Denise Poiret with "Ispahan" Evening Coat, 1908
Mauve silk and gold lace Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- Group of Turbans worn by Denise Poiret, 1910–1925
Green, gold, purple, and black and silver lamé Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- "Le Bal" Shoes worn by Denise Poiret, 1924
Made by André Perugia (French, 1893–1977) Leather with polychrome seed-bead embroidery The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.192a, b)
- Boots worn by Denise Poiret, ca. 1913
Made by Favereau White leather Courtesy of Karen Augusta
- Stockings worn by Denise Poiret, 1910–1925
Polychrome silk, cotton, lamé Courtesy of Francesca Galloway Ltd.
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon and Powder Box for the perfume "L'Étrange Fleur", 1919 Metal and paper Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Atélier Martine (French, founded 1911) for Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Fan for the perfume "L'Étrange Fleur", 1919 Paper and wood Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon for the perfume "Le Fruit Défendu" (1915) Glass, metal, and paper Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon for the perfume "La Coupe d'Or" (1919) Glass Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Flacon for the perfume "Coeur en Folie" (1925) Glass and paper Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Compact designed by Charles Martin, ca. 1920 Paper Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Fan produced to promote Paul Poiret's Amour, Délice, and Orgue, three Martine decorated barges moored on the banks of the Seine during the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, 1925
Paper and wood Courtesy of the Collection of Christie Mayer Lefkowith
- Georges Lepape (French, 188–1971) for Les Parfums de Rosine (French, founded 1911)
Fan, 1911 Paper and wood Courtesy of Sandy Schreier
- Georges Lepape (French, 188–1971)
"Arlequin" and "Colombine" dolls, 1920 Painted wood and polychrome silk and organza Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
- Georges Lepape (French, 188–1971)
Arlequin and Colombine from Costumes de théâtre, ballets & divertissements, 1920 Hand-colored pochoir The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Thomas J. Watson Library
- Parasol, ca. 1913
Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953) Wood and polychrome silk Courtesy of Sandy Schreier
- Parasol, ca. 1913
Textile design attributed to Raoul Dufy (French, 1877–1953) Wood and polychrome silk Courtesy of Alan R. Moss and Robert D. Walsh
- Group of Parasols, ca. 1913
Wood and polychrome silk Courtesy of Sandy Schreier
Photographs Included in the Exhibition
- Photograph of Paul Poiret with his wife and muse, Denise, 1911.
- Photograph of a pochoir taken from Paul Iribe's Les robes de Paul Poiret, 1908.
- Photograph of Lillie Langtree wearing the "Révérend" coat, 1905.
- Photograph of Denise Poiret wearing the "Paris" coat with the "Faune" dress.
- Photograph of a mannequin, or possibly Denise Poiret, wearing the "La Perse" coat, 1911.
- Photograph of a pochoir taken from Paul Iribe's Les robes de Paul Poiret, 1908.
- Photograph of Paul and Denise Poiret in their costumes for "Les Festes de Bacchus, " June 20, 1912.
- Photograph of the pochoir Les cerises, by Georges Lepape from Gazette du Bon Ton, May 1913.
- Photograph of the actress Andrée Spinelly in the atrium of her apartment, which was designed by the Atelier Martine. The image appeared in a promotional brochure for Rosine perfumes, 1918.
- Photograph of Paul and Denise Poiret in their costumes for "The Thousand and Second Night" party, June 24, 1911.
- Photograph of Tanger ou Les Charmes de L'Exil by Georges Lepape from Gazette du Bon Ton, 1920.
- Photograph of the pochoir Mademoiselle Sorel en grand habit by Georges Barbier from Le bonheur du jour, 1920–24.
- Photograph of Denise Poiret wearing the dress "Faune", 1919.
- Photograph of the dress "Bataille", 1925.
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