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The Essential Art of African Textiles: Design Without End

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Enlarge Adire Cloth: Olokun (detail)
Nigeria; Yoruba, first half of the 20th century
Cotton, indigo dye; 69 5/16 x 77 3/16 in. (176 x 196 cm)
The British Museum, London (Af1971.35.17)
Adire is the Yoruba term for resist-dyed cloth primarily created in the cities of Abeokuta, Ibadan, and Oshogbo in southwestern Nigeria. This work is a classic example of adire eleko, in which graphic designs are painted onto one side of the cloth with starch made from cassava flour before dyeing. The vocabulary of motifs juxtaposed in these dense compositions is passed down from mother to daughter. This work is identified with the genre known as Olokun, the name of the Yoruba goddess of the sea and prosperity. The designs featured range from geometric patterns to images of crocodiles, fish, chieftaincy leaves, birds, scorpions, plantains, matches, and spinning tops. Often, as here, the author placed her own mark or signature on the hem, underscoring the fact that no two interpretations are identical.
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