Fashion in European Armor

Armor was subject not only to technical advances but also to changes in taste as well as aesthetic and artistic expression within each period of its development.
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Aquamanile in the Form of a Mounted Knight, Copper alloy, German
German
ca. 1250
Armor, Steel, copper alloy, textile, leather, Italian
Italian
ca. 1400–1450 and later
Sallet in the Shape of a Lion's Head, Steel, copper, gold, glass, pigment, textile, Italian
Italian
ca. 1475–80
Elements of a Light-Cavalry Armor, Christian Schreiner the Younger  Austrian, Steel, leather, Austrian, Innsbruck or Mühlau
Armorer Christian Schreiner the Younger
ca. 1505–10
Elements of an Italian Light-Cavalry Armor <i>alla Tedesca</i> (in the German Fashion), Steel, gold, copper alloy, leather, Italian, Milan
Italian, Milan
ca. 1510
Portions of a Costume Armor, Kolman Helmschmid  German, Steel, copper alloy, gold, German, Augsburg
Armorer Kolman Helmschmid
ca. 1525
Armor Garniture of George Clifford (1558–1605), 
Third Earl of Cumberland, Jacob Halder  British, Steel, gold, leather, textile, British, Greenwich
Armorer Made under the direction of Jacob Halder
1586

Like most manmade objects, armor was subject not only to technical advances but also to changes in taste as well as aesthetic and artistic expression within each period of its development. In broad outline, this can already be witnessed in the armor worn by warriors throughout the ancient world. In medieval and Renaissance Europe, especially from the fourteenth century onward, it is apparent that armor was strongly influenced by contemporary civilian costume according to current tastes and regional fashions (in some rare instances, armor could even influence civilian fashion). Such influences and fashions could change relatively quickly, and it is probably no exaggeration to argue that, to medieval and Renaissance minds, a concept similar to our understanding of “the ’50s,” “the ’60s,” and “the ’70s” for the taste of a particular age or decade would probably have been quite familiar. In addition to the influence civilian costume had on the general appearance of armor, such as form and outline, different tastes and fashions are also clearly recognizable in the decoration of armor. To some extent, finally, technical developments and constructional features could also be so confined to a certain region that they can be classified as a local or national style. The study of “fashion in armor” accordingly can provide scholars with valuable information for the dating and geographical identification of armor. The following texts will give a broad outline of fashion in European armor from the eleventh to the seventeenth century, including a selection of the most important developments as well as a number of lesser known trends.


Contributors

Dirk H. Breiding
Department of Arms and Armor, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

October 2004


Citation

View Citations

Breiding, Dirk H. “Fashion in European Armor.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas/hd_afas.htm (October 2004)