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North America: The Mid-Atlantic Region, 1600-1800 A.D.


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Robe à la polonaise, 1780–85
American
Hand-painted yellow Chinese silk
Gift of Heirs of Emily Kearny Rodgers Cowenhoven, 1970 (1970.87a,b)


The polonaise gown first came into fashion in the 1770s. It was a style of gown with a close-fitting bodice and the back of the skirt gathered up into three separate puffed sections to reveal the petticoat below. The method of suspending the fabric varied. Most often the dress had rows of little rings sewn inside the skirt through which a cord ran from hem to waist. Alternatively, ribbon ties would be used with the ribbons forming decorative bows. However, in some instances the skirt was held in place by simple cords sewn to the inner waist of the dress and looped over buttons attached to the outside waistline.

Fashions were often named after current affairs or public events, and it has been suggested that the term polonaise derives from the division of Poland between Prussia, Russia, and Austria in 1772.