Mantle, 1870–75
French
White wool serge couched with metallic braid
Gift of Mrs. Philip K. Rhinelander, 1946 (46.25.4)
Opera cloak, 1850s
American
Ivory silk faille embroidered with gold soutache braid
Gift of Mrs. Josephine Mingle Tennant, 1953 (C.I.53.2)
Dolman, ca. 1870
American (?)
While silk poplin and braid
Gift of Mrs. George W. Heller, 1938 (C.I.38.102)
Technical Glossary
French
White wool serge couched with metallic braid
Gift of Mrs. Philip K. Rhinelander, 1946 (46.25.4)
Opera cloak, 1850s
American
Ivory silk faille embroidered with gold soutache braid
Gift of Mrs. Josephine Mingle Tennant, 1953 (C.I.53.2)
Dolman, ca. 1870
American (?)
While silk poplin and braid
Gift of Mrs. George W. Heller, 1938 (C.I.38.102)
Mantle, cape, and dolman extend a relatively unstructured Eastern vocabulary to the Western tailored wardrobe. Couched gold braiding and fringed borders suggest North African dress in their palette and details. Similar scrolling embellishments are seen on the soutache-embroidered pique day dress à la Zouave in Monet's Women in the Garden (1866; Musée d'Orsay, Paris).
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Subject Matter/Theme
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