Egypt or Syria; Possibly made for the Rasulid sultan of Yemen, al–Mu'ayyad Hizabr al–Din Dawud ibn Yusuf (r. 12961321)
Silk with brown and ivory stripes, double–cloth weave; 20 1/4 x 36 1/4 in. (51.4 x 92.1 cm)
Rogers Fund, 1931 (31.14a,b)
The inscription in thuluth repeated on the fragment reads: "Glory to our master the sultan al-Malik al-Mu'ayyad." The identification of this sultan is somewhat controversial. Although the jacket has been attributed to the reign of the Mamluk al-Mu'ayyad Sayf al-Din Shaykh (141221), the dynamic pattern of affronted animals, including the eagle's wing turning into a duck, seems consistent with early fourteenth-century Mamluk art. Thus this silk probably was produced by weavers of the Mamluk court for the Rasulid sultan al-Mu'ayyad Hizabr al-Din Dawud ibn Yusuf at the beginning of the fourteenth century, even though the five-petalled rosettethe insignia of the Rasulidsis not in the decoration. This is the only known textile that can be included in the group of objects made in Egypt or Syria for the Rasulids. When it was in mint condition, the jacket must have been a sumptuous piece of clothing worthy of the Yemenite sultan himself.