胴箔地蔦香包下地窓模様縫箔 Noh Costume (Nuihaku) with Ivy, Incense Wrappers, and Bamboo Blinds
Edo period (1615–1868)
first half of the 18th century
Silk embroidery and gold leaf on silk satin
60 x 50 in. (152.4 x 127 cm)
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1932
Not on view
Garments decorated with nuihaku, a technique combining embroidery and applied metallic leaf, were first made in the late fifteenth century. The technique became extremely popular on women’s kosode (garment with small sleeve openings) during the Momoyama period (1573–1615), particularly for creating naturalistic, complex patterns. Nuihaku garments were occasionally donated to outstanding Noh actors, and the term became synonymous with sumptuous Noh robes.
The gold-leaf background on this robe suffuses the ivy, incense wrappers, and bamboo blinds with golden light. Elegant nuihaku, like this one, were worn wrapped around the waist as outer garments, mostly by actors playing female roles. On stage, actors could take advantage of the light-reflecting qualities of the applied metallic leaf.
Louis V. Ledoux , New York (until 1932; sold to MMA).
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Noh Robes," 1993.
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Seasonal Pleasures in Japanese Art (Part One)," October 12, 1995–April 28, 1996.
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Arts of Japan," 1999.
Artist: Date: early 17th century Accession Number: 1992.253 Date: early 17th centuryMedium: Embroidery and gold leaf on plain-weave silk patterned with warp floatsAccession: 1992.253On view in:Not on view
Artist: Date: second half of the 17th century Accession Number: 1980.222 Date: second half of the 17th centuryMedium: Silk and metallic thread embroidery with resist dyeing on satin damaskAccession: 1980.222On view in:Not on view