黒綸子地橘蝶熨斗模様打掛 Outer Robe (Uchikake) with Mandarin Oranges and Folded-Paper Butterflies
Edo period (1615–1868)
late 18th–early 19th century
Tie-dyed satin damask with silk embroidery and couched gold thread
Overall: 69 1/2 × 48 1/2 in. (176.5 × 123.2 cm)
Gift of Ilse Bischoff, 1976
Not on view
The outer robe, or uchikake, was worn without a sash over a kosode on formal occasions. Originating in the Kamakura period (1185–1333) as a robe for highranking samurai ladies, it later was used more widely as formal winter attire. In traditional marriage ceremonies, an uchikake is worn over a wedding kimono. Extra padding is inserted into the hem to provide a seamless flow of the train.
Wedding uchikake are decorated with auspicious motifs, such as the folded-paper butterflies depicted here in pairs, male and female, to represent the newly wedded couple. Folded-paper butterflies attached to thin strips of paper were also used to adorn presents and may be the origins of this pattern. “Butterfly” in Japanese is pronounced chō, which sounds like the word for “long” (長), so the motif also symbolizes a long and happy marriage. The evergreen mandarin orange tree (tachibana) is executed in tie-dye (shibori) on a patterned black silk satin damask (rinzu) ground. Teal, red, and gold details are added in embroidery and gold couching.
Ilse Bischoff , Hartland, VT (until 1976; donated to MMA)
Artist: Date: early 20th century Accession Number: 37.92.10 Date: early 20th centuryMedium: Resist-dyed and painted plain-weave silk embroidered with gold threadAccession: 37.92.10On view in:Gallery 231
Artist: Date: late 18th–early 19th century Accession Number: 1976.108 Date: late 18th–early 19th centuryMedium: Tie-dyed satin damask with silk embroidery and couched gold threadAccession: 1976.108On view in:Not on view
Artist: Date: second half of the 18th–first half of the 19th century Accession Number: 1988.165 Date: second half of the 18th–first half of the 19th centuryMedium: Silk and metallic-thread embroidery on resist-dyed silk satin damask (rinzu)Accession: 1988.165On view in:Not on view
Artist: Date: second half of the 18th–first half of the 19th century Accession Number: 1981.60.1 Date: second half of the 18th–first half of the 19th centuryMedium: Silk and metallic-thread embroidery on resist-dyed and painted silk satin damask (rinzu)Accession: 1981.60.1On view in:Not on view