Textile by Anna Maria Garthwaite (British, 1690–1763)
Textile by Peter Lekeux (British, 1716–1768)
silk, wool, metallic
Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1966
Not on view
The original design of this waistcoat, in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, was acquired by that institution along with several volumes of Garthwaite's designs, and was published in articles by Peter Thornton and Natalie Rothstein on the Huguenot silk-weaving industry in London. The marvel of this original design is that it identifies not only the artist but also the weaver, Peter Lekeux, and gives the date of sale -- October 23, 1747 -- as well. In addition, the metal threads to be used in the weaving are described: "dark yellow plate" (a plain, metal strip); "light yellow plain" (a metal strip wound around a silk or linen core); and "grey frosted" (a textured thread that sparkles). Both Garthwaite and Peter Lekeux were important contributors to the English silk industry in the Spitalfields area of London.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Bloom: Fashion's Spring Gardens," March 30, 1995–August 20, 1995.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute," November 17, 1987–April 17, 1988.
Victoria and Albert Museum. "Flowered Silks: 18th Century Silk Design in the Victoria and Albert Museum," August 8, 1990–October 28, 1990.