In the 1910s, Poiret introduced an avant-garde sensibility into couture. His penchant for opulent gestures, lush fabrics, fur, and feathers was part of his grandiose "Gesamtkunstwerk," inspired by stage and orientalist extravaganza. He was also capable of more subdued garments. In the case of this day coat, the leather of the appliqués is cut into delicate filigree and couched by hand onto the wool to create a graphic lattice of white over black. The cylindrical silhouette and standing collar suggest inspiration from Chinese or Near Eastern robes and coats.
Marking: [label] Paul Poiret à Paris
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Haute Couture," December 7, 1995–March 24, 1996.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Fashion and History: A Dialogue," December 7, 1992–March 21, 1993.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "The 10s, the 20s, the 30s: Inventive Clothes (1909–1939)," December 13, 1973–September 3, 1974.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "The Art of Fashion," October 23, 1967–January 1, 1968.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Poiret: King of Fashion," May 9, 2007–August 5, 2007.