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In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

Bolton, Andrew, and Amanda Garfinkel, with contributions by Jessica Regan and Stephanie Kramer, photographs by Anna-Marie Kellen
272 pages
236 illustrations
9.5 x 12 in.
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A new glossary of American fashion explores the expressive qualities of works by pioneering designers, who established the nation’s style, and the up-and-coming designers shaping its future.

In America: A Lexicon of Fashion presents a modern vocabulary of American dress that emphasizes emotions while not discounting the simple, practical, and egalitarian character that has traditionally separated American ready-to-wear from European haute couture. Stunning new photography showcases over 100 garments from the 1940s to the present that offer a timely new perspective on the diverse and multifaceted nature of American fashion.

The catalogue features works that display qualities such as belonging, comfort, desire, exuberance, fellowship, joy, nostalgia, optimism, reverence, spontaneity, strength, and sweetness by well-known designers and emerging creatives, including:

Gilbert Adrian
Geoffrey Beene
Thom Browne
Bonnie Cashin
Willy Chavarria
Olivia Cheng
Telfar Clemens
Oscar de la Renta
Colm Dillane
Perry Ellis
Tremaine Emory
Tom Ford
Rudi Gernreich
Elizabeth Hawes
Carolina Herrera
Conner Ives
Charles James
Kerby Jean-Raymond
Donna Karan
Calvin Klein
Michael Kors
Ralph Lauren
Vera Maxwell
Claire McCardell
Norman Norell
Heron Preston
Christopher John Rogers
Raul Solís
Hillary Taymour
Diane von Furstenberg
Vera Wang

Quilt, Tumbling Blocks with Signatures pattern, Adeline Harris Sears  American, Silk, American
begun 1856
Loungewear, Serendipity 3  American, Cotton, American
Dress, Patrick Kelly  American, Wool, plastic, French
fall/winter 1986–87
Evening dress, Todd Oldham  American, synthetic, plastic, American
fall/winter 1994–95
Dress, Stephen Burrows  American, Wool, American
early 1970s
Dress, Christian Francis Roth  American, Wool, American
ca. 1990
Evening dress, Fabrice  American, Silk, plastic, American
Dress, Stephen Sprouse  American, Silk, synthetic, American
fall/winter 1983–84
Ensemble, Anna Sui  American, Cotton, feathers, plastic, synthetic, American
spring/summer 1994
Ensemble, Marc Jacobs  American, (a) silk, (b) silk, synthetic fiber, (c, d) synthetic fiber, (e, f) leather, American
spring/summer 2019
Jumpsuit, Rudi Gernreich  American, born Austria, Wool, plastic, American
Suit, Carmelo Pomodoro  American, wool, silk, cotton, plastic, metal, American
ca. 1989
Suit, Gilbert Adrian  American, Wool, silk, American
Uniform, Elizabeth Hawes  American, (a–g) wool<br/>(h) metal, American
Uniform, Mainbocher  French and American, Wool, cotton, American
Uniform, Mrs. Helen Cookman  American, Cotton, American
"La Sirène", Charles James  American, Silk, American
Ensemble, Rick Owens  American, (a) cupro, elastane, (b) cupro, elastane, cotton, (c) nylon, (d, e) leather, rubber, American
fall/winter 2019–20
Dress, Geoffrey Beene  American, Wool, lycra, silk, American
fall/winter 1989–90
Skirt, Donna Karan New York  American, Synthetic, American
Showing 20 of 29

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Bolton, Andrew, Amanda Garfinkel, Jessica Regan, Stephanie L. Kramer, and Anna-Marie Kellan. 2022. In America: A Lexicon of Fashion. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art.