Evening coat

First established in the 1890s by the four Callot sisters as a lingerie and lace business, Callot Soeurs evolved into a premier dressmaking house in the early years of the 20th century. The garments from Callot Soeurs in the Brooklyn Museum collections incorporate the signature elements of the house: antique lace trimming, Orientalist textiles, lavish embroidery that includes bead- or ribbonwork, or a combination of these elements. Textiles, motifs and designs of Callot garments draw on multi-cultural sources, always in a subtle and refined manner. In this example, the cut of the coat resembles that of a Japanese kimono while the embroidery forms fretwork and abstracted phoenix motifs seen in Chinese damasks. Madame Gerber, the eldest Callot sister, served as the primary designer for the house until 1927 when her sons took over the business.