A leitmotif of Mrs. Kempner's collection was the evening "column," a silhouette that displayed her lean proportions to advantage. An example is John Galliano's evening ensemble. Taking his inspiration from Christian Dior's 1947 "New Look" collection, Galliano shapes his halter into the hip-padded form of the iconic "bar suit" jacket. This witty citation and irreverent updating of a well-known form are typical of Galliano. The ensemble, with its body exposure, exclamatory attenuation, and tailoring for evening, is, however, quintessentially Kempner.
Signatures, Inscriptions, and Markings
Marking: a) [label] "Christian Dior / HAUTE COUTURE / PARIS" b) [typed label] "19881 PE98 / 100%LAINE / DOUBLE SOIE"
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Nan Kempner: American Chic," December 12, 2006–March 4, 2007.