Evening coat

This is an excellent example of the graphic piecing typical of the mid-1920s Art Deco movement. This splendid coat was purchased at Poiret's salon in 1925, the same year as his final spectacular showing at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. His style is interpreted within the draping aesthetic of a classic kimono which indicates Poiret's facility with combining cultural identities into a cohesive garment.

Paul Poiret was the son of a textile distributor with the ambition and creativity to become a fashion designer. Brief employment for Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) and the House of Worth (1858-1956) led him to open his own dressmaking shop near the Place de l'Opèra in 1903 at the age of 24. His first two design albums, "Les Robes de Paul Poiret" drawn by Paul Iribe (1883-1935) in 1908 and "Les Choses de Paul Poiret" created by Georges Lepape (1887-1971) in 1911, not only changed the concept of fashion marketing and illustration, they prophesied the pivotal transition women made from the corseted silhouette of the Victorian age into the natural and sleek un-corseted form of the modern era. The tubular shape and folkloric trimmings he presented were continuously part of the Poiret vocabulary as well as draping, which proved ingenious in the time of tailoring and drafting.