Jacket

First established in the 1890s by the four Callot sisters as a lingerie and lace business, Callot Soeurs evolved into a premier dressmaking house in the early years of the 20th century. As with other garments from Callot Soeurs in the Brooklyn Museum collection, this example incorporates a signature element of the house, exceptional decorative trim of the highest quality. The dark velvet of the jacket contrasts with the magenta details of the soutache braid and toggle buttons. The form of the buttons, placement of the braid and use of Persian lamb edging evokes both the military uniforms of Hussar regiments and eastern European traditional dress, such as hardy sheepskin coats from Hungary. Callot garments like this one often show a variety of multi-cultural influences, but the elements are always reinterpreted to create a unified fashionable design.