Jacket

Claire McCardell is remembered as a pioneer of American fashion. After studying at Parsons and living in Paris, she returned to America to design functional, affordable clothes for the American woman. Her simple use of natural fabrics, such as cotton, denim and wool combined with flattering silhouettes filled a vacancy in women's fashion. Her first success was the tent-shaped Monastic dress, which had no form, but when belted became body-revealing and flattering. For the length of her career, McCardell designed inventive, sometimes daring looks that were mass-produced down to every last spaghetti tie and brass hook.

This jacket not only creates a beautiful silhouette, but is remarkably functional, being made of reversible fabric that contrasts from light to dark. The cut of the collar, forming the hood is inventive and reminiscent of the designer's blouses with integral hoods. The circular cut of the coat is inspired by the Empire period but the choice of simple, natural fabrics marks this piece as traditional sportswear.