Designer Charles James American

Not on view

Like Paul Poiret’s capacious cocoon coats of the 1910s, this James design is meant to wrap around the wearer, completely concealing her figure. Constructed with exaggerated raglan sleeves and a center back seam but no side seams, the coat is draped to create a deep dolman and to taper to the hem. James claimed that the cut eliminated the need for fundamental changes in proportion, no matter his client’s shape, size, or height.

Coat, Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978), wool, American

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