Jacket (Michiyuki) with Maple Leaves

This jacket’s decorative maple leaves on the surface and the design of a girl carrying reeds and branches of maple is based on compositions by Kamisaka Sekka (1866–1942). Sekka was born in Kyoto and became one of the last proponents of the Rinpa style. Sekka, the father of modern design, worked in a variety of media, including lacquer. His woodblock-print masterpiece is Momoyagusa (A World of Things), a three-volume set commissioned by the Kyoto-based publishing firm Unsōdō between 1909 and 1910. The design of the girl is based on a composition published in Momoyagusa. Characteristic of the Taishō-Shōwa culture is its predilection for traditional design, such as flowers, maples, cranes, pines or bamboo, while also showing a keen interest in Western patterns.

The outside of the jacket is decorated with branches of green maple leaves. The purple silk has brocaded patterns, including bamboo leaves, flower roundels and geometric patterns. The maple leaves are paste-resist dyed with delicate gradations and added details in silver thread embroidery. The inside lining is very colorful: on yellow background a young girl is depicted carrying reeds including branches with red maple leaves. The lower half of the composition is in fresh green color. The inner silk has the same brocaded pattern as that of the outside. It is designed so when the jacket is not being worn the head of the maple-carrying girl is visible above the neckline.

This purple silk jacket was designed to fit over a kimono for warmth and protection. The Japanese term, michiyuki, refers to the function of the jacket: michi means “street” and yuki is “going out”, accordingly this is a casual jacket. Michiyuki are characterized by their square or round neckline and button closures. These garments are designed mostly for women.