Design for a Gold, Diamond and Pearl Brooch

Drawing with a design for a gold, diamond and pearl brooch, part of a modern scrapbook with 38 sheets showing designs for jewelry with pearls, diamonds and other (semi-)precious stones all done in watercolor and heightened with gold, characteristic of the period between 1870 and 1930, which saw some of the most extravagant and innovative trends in jewelry design. By the second half of the nineteenth century, the naturalistic compositions of earlier decades had become more complex, and the colors in nature mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design. In the last years of the century, designs for jewelry had become even more elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement. Towards the end of the nineteenth and through the first decades of the twentieth century, diamond jewelry was re-interpreted to create the new 'garland style', and the Art Nouveau movement created sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel. During the 1920s, the economic boom following the war saw an increased glamour in jewelry design, with sharp, geometric patterns that celebrated modernity and the machine age. Art Deco jewelry is characterized by dense concentrations of gemstones and the use of platinum in place of gold, with inspiration from all over the world, especially from the Near and Far East. Like most of the drawings in the album, this design is fully rendered with gouache, showing not only the styles for the jewelry designs, but also suggesting choices of precious metals, stones, and other materials to be used in the creation of the jewels. It is also possible that these designs are real-sized, allowing the customer to visualize the jewel fully from this presentation drawings before commissioning its manufacture.

This design for a jeweled brooch shows an arrangement of diamonds and white pearls set on gold, revealing a design typical of the time. The design contains a rosette in the center, made up of a large pearl framed by smaller-sized diamonds over a gold roundel from which scrolls of gold and diamonds emerge. The rosette in the center is flanked above by two small scrolls of diamonds and a smaller pearl, and below by an inverted crown of diamonds set on gold that contains a small pearl standing between the gold holding the diamonds and the golden roundel framing the rosette. From the scrolls hang two strings of diamonds that meet at the bottom of the diamond crown, which are decorated with teardrop pearls held by small diamonds. From the intersection of the two strings of diamonds hangs a smaller rosette also made up of a pearl framed by diamonds, and a larger diamond followed by a teardrop pearl hang from it.