Design for a Silver (?), Diamond and Pearl Brooch

Drawing with a design for a silver (?), diamond and pearl brooch, part of a modern scrapbook with 38 sheets showing designs for jewelry with pearls, diamonds and other (semi-)precious stones all done in watercolor and heightened with gold, characteristic of the period between 1870 and 1930, which saw some of the most extravagant and innovative trends in jewelry design. By the second half of the nineteenth century, the naturalistic compositions of earlier decades had become more complex, and the colors in nature mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design. In the last years of the century, designs for jewelry had become even more elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement. Towards the end of the nineteenth and through the first decades of the twentieth century, diamond jewelry was re-interpreted to create the new 'garland style', and the Art Nouveau movement created sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel. During the 1920s, the economic boom following the war saw an increased glamour in jewelry design, with sharp, geometric patterns that celebrated modernity and the machine age. Art Deco jewelry is characterized by dense concentrations of gemstones and the use of platinum in place of gold, with inspiration from all over the world, especially from the Near and Far East. Like most of the drawings in the album, this design is fully rendered with gouache, showing not only the styles for the jewelry designs, but also suggesting choices of precious metals, stones, and other materials to be used in the creation of the jewels. It is also possible that these designs are real-sized, allowing the customer to visualize the jewel fully from this presentation drawings before commissioning its manufacture.

This design for a brooch consists of a quatrefoil frame made made up of a ribbon-inspided motif and adorned with small C-curves and pearls. Five large pearls arranged to follow the quatrefoil-shape of the frame lie in the center, the four outer pearls separated by fleur de lis motifs, possibly to be achieved by using diamonds or enamel. Semi-circles decorated with groups of three small pearls join the fleurs de lys and frame the larger pearls. Two scrolls emerge from the bottom of the quatrefoil frame and are flanked by a pearl. Additionally, a thin silver festoon hangs from the quatrefoil frame, with a trefoil motif with a large pearl, three smaller ones, and a fleur de lis motif hanging from it. Two pearls set on small petal-shaped motifs hang from the quatrefoil frame on each side of the festoon.