Design House House of Vionnet French
Designer Madeleine Vionnet French

Not on view

The essential two-dimensional consideration of the body in the 1920s was an unexpected boon to designers who aligned with the modernists. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and Jean Patou, with their spare forms inspired by menswear and sportswear, prioritized functionalism in their daywear. It was Madeleine Vionnet, however, who best assimilated the conceptual underpinnings of the modern movement. With her innovative use of bias and rigorous application of a form-equals-function strategy, Vionnet introduced the subtle fit of her dress with gridded pin tucks that are simultaneously structure and ornament.

Dress, House of Vionnet (French, active 1912–14; 1918–39), silk, French

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